Cat on a leash

Look, I am posting again!  

Yesterday (Friday) was pretty eventful.  It started out with a 1:00 PM movie that I had to go to at my program center (Since I am taking History of French cinema I have to go to three movies this semester.  They show them every Friday.)  It was an old school 1950s French flick with lots of staged slaps, harlots, a murder, and twirly mustaches.  It actually wasn't that good.  Oh well.  

Patience and I had decided we were going to get together and have a Parisian adventure so I called her as soon as I got out of my movie.  We decided on Palais Decouverte because there was an exhibit that we were really curious about due to the signs on the metro and such.  (I will tell more in a bit.)  On the way to the metro I saw a man walking a  fluffy pure white dog that oddly looked like a cat.  As he got closer, I realized...it was a cat.  A cat on a leash.  No one else seemed to stare.  He was just strolling down the street with the white poof trotting beside him.

Palais Decouverte is a science museum, kind of family oriented but there is nothing like it in the States that I can think of.  It is intellectual and yet totally awesome for kids.  Somehow they are able to make things interesting, enjoyable, and applicable for 5 year olds and adults.  It is more than "lets play with bubbles.  Oh look at the pretty colors." And then a bunch of kids running around trying to pop them.  No, it is not that.  There are lectures/classes that go on in each exhibit.  Patience and I found one in the genetics part about ADN (DNA to all of us Anglo-Saxons) and how we get certain characteristics and what everything means.  It was really interesting, and yet there were also a bunch of little kids who were eagerly listening to the woman.  You don't see that in the States.  I think I learned more, and retained more in that little lecture than my high school bio class.  

So what exhibit were we curious about?  The nose.  They had an exhibit all about smell, and the nose.  Basically a bunch of stations that you could smell stuff through these little screens.  Sometimes you had to guess what it was, and others demonstrated the differences in perfume, or how we remember and associate scents with memories or people.  Pretty awesome, although I was feeling a bit light headed after sniffing baked bread, lilacs, garbage (ugh), cinnamon, etc for awhile.  Patience and I sat down and just talked for awhile before we continued through the rest of the Discovery Museum.  There was a wood exhibit, not so cool and not very popular.  I wonder why... Optical illusions, geometry, outer space, and so on.  We were a bit disappointed that they still had Pluto in there as though it was a planet.  A bit outdated!  They need to get it together.  :-)  

Plans for the rest of the night: Patience and her friend Woody were going to go to a gypsy concert Friday night, which sounded really cool so she and I decided to go home, grab dinner, and meet up around 10.  It was in the 20th arrondisement which is basically on the other side of Paris from where I live.  Oh well, I was really curious about this mystery gypsy concert.  Woody is really into music and plays just about every instrument and has great taste in music so I definitely trusted his decision.  

My older host bro, Romain, had one of his best friends over so we all ate together before they went off to watch a rugby game at a local bar.  It was great, they have been friends for over 20 years and joke around like my family/friends do at home.  It was fun for the three of us to be crude and crass as I am used to growing up with my brother and cousin, and so on.  I fit right in!  

Anyway, I left for the concert around 9, and got to the metro stop a bit after 10.  The highlight of my long long train ride was a meticulously dressed drag queen and her flaming partner.  The square jaw and adams apple gave it away. When I got to my destination, Patience and I trudged up one of the few hills in Paris to get to the Belleville bar and club.   The concert was going to go from 9 to 5 in the morning!  But don't worry, I did not stay that long.  Woody was already there totally into the music.  The first band that was on was "okay" according to him, but when we got there it was this AWESOME Klezmer band.  So the lead guy is Ukranian, one of them was from Kosovo, another was from some other Eastern European country, but the band in general originates in Amsterdam.  Go figure.  They spoke in English because their French was dreadful. Their set lasted over an hour and we danced and danced.  It was so cool, and the entire crowd was really into it.  Now let me describe the fantastic crowd.  They were not the people that you see strolling down the Champs Elysées with Prada bags and Chanel heels.  They were Bohemian galore.  Kind of what the French call BoBo, Bourgeois Bohemian, not dirty scoundrels at all.  Just a lot of cool flowy dresses, kind of hippie-esque at times, artsy but not wearing all black artsy, some dreadlocks, lots of layers and pretty scarves, etc.  I loved it.  

After their set we decided to get some fresh air.  There was an amazing terrace that overlooked the entire area.  You didn't have to smoke to feel the effects, everyone else was doing it for you.  But still, the view was worth it.  There were all these little chimneys on top of the buildings around us that reminded me of Mary Poppins.  I waited for the chimney sweeps to pop out in song, but it didn't happen.  The last act that we anxiously waited for was called Gypsy Soundsystem, Woody had looked it up and loved it so we were eager to see what the deal was.

Down we went, back into the club (there is also a cool looking tapas restaurant on the main level).  Gypsy Soundsystem was so cool.  so it is actually one guy who is a DJ, but the music he does is great.  It is like Gypsy-esque mixed with a bit of rock/electro/Middle Eastern fantasticness.  Check it out!  myspace.com/gypsysoundsystem  It was the best music to dance to. No getting down and dirty stuff, just fun rhythmic move your body all around music.  And that is exactly what I did for awhile, until I knew I had to go.  The metro closes here at 2 or 2:30 on the weekends depending on the line so I knew I couldn't leave later than 1.  I left at 1.  But I had to pull myself away because I was totally into the music.  So I hopped back on the metro and got myself home around 2:15 or so.  The exhaustion hit me on the train ride so I was completely ready to crash when I made it to my room.  And that was exactly what I did.  

The end. 

NO coconut

Ok can anyone tell me how to add photo albums to this, I swear I have taken pictures but I have no idea how to put them up in an album or something...suggestions?  

Anyhoozle, not too much in the Paris hood.  Still getting accustomed to classes.  After class on Monday, two of my friends and I decided to go for a little stroll on the Champs Elysées... the usual.  We headed for Ladurée, a world famous pastry shop, particularly macarons (NOT MACAROONS).  There is absolutely no coconut in them.  I got a blueberry one and a citrus one OH MY GOODNESS.  I will not try to describe how amazing they are because I can't.  They are little cakes with a sort of hard shell and a soft creamy center. Look them up- if anyone comes to visit we are going.  End of story.

 Tuesday, my friend Laura and I went to the TD (kind of like TA) section of our medieval history class.  The professor was pretty nice, but as usual the students just talked and talked.  No respect. But it turns out we have two weeks off for their winter vacation. Hallelujah. On Wednesday, 5 people from our little grammar group went out with the director of the program for drinks.  There is this thing called SOAR, where one of the program people leads a group of students in discussions and takes them out and such.  Our "leader" is the director!  She is great.  We had really interesting conversations particularly about the French university system.  A number of us mentioned our experiences with the chatterbox students.  She said that it is the norm.  She asked us why it was like that.  We had a really long discussion about education.  It turns out, because university here is free, people can take longer to get through school, and contrary to popular belief, the system is not competitive, one will often find such disruptive atmospheres especially in lower level classes.  The system weeds people out, and since the professors are paid by the state she said many of them believe that students should be there to learn, and if they don't pay attention and talk, that is their problem, not the professors. However, she said that one does find professors who will take charge of a class and maintain authority. Sometimes such a teacher would tell anyone who is not willing to learn to leave, and they do.  If they don't want to be there, then why go? 

So after a bottle of wine (I had a coffee and biscuits), and a few hours of conversation, we all headed home.  Other than that, I had class for the rest of the week but tomorrow I have NADA.

Here's to you St. Valentin and African shaman!

Three museums in one weekend.  Oh and class at a real life French institution.  That pretty much sums up my weekend.  Friday was my first day of class at l'Institut Catholique de Paris.  Medieval history...we learned about land distribution, serfs, and seigneurs.  Fascinating... actually what was more fascinating, or annoying to be more precise, were the rude students.  As the professor lectured to 30 or so students, everyone talked.  Not whispered, TALKED, to each other.  My friend, Laura, and I were appalled.  We had heard about such behavior from other Americans who had taken courses at universities, but it was amazing to actually see it in action.  Talking, talking, talking, and the professor could barely do anything about it.  There were two "shushes" but no one even looked up.  Bienvenue.

Friday night I went out with Chenault, and we met up with Patience (from NU), who is here on another program.  We weren't quite sure what to do, so we headed to the Louvre.  Oh how I missed Evanston at that point... There was a dance show that was to be performed amidst the artwork in one gallery.  By dance, I mean people dressed in crepe sacks shuffling and moving their hands in weird ways.  Interpretive dance at its finest.  I shot some videos, so hopefully I will figure out a way to upload them.  Only in Paris would there be interpretive dancing next to an early Islamic statue.   Another girl from IES, Rachel, met up with us after the Louvre and we meandered around the area to find something to eat.  Around 10 we entered a little Japanese place.  Teryaki delight!  Actually it was not that good, but it was cheap and I was famished.  We sat and talked about our experiences for hours.  

Saturday was a sleep-in day.  For me that means getting up around 10:30.  I had lunch with the family, and then head to Musée quai Branly for Valentine's day.  There is nothing better to do on the day of love than go see a bunch of "primitive" art.  On the way there, I happened to trip over the Eiffel Tower.  It gets me every time.  What I mean, is that the metro station to get to the museum is right next to the tower so when I got out there were some trees, and a big ole iron thing.  Kind of cool.  Being a tourist, I took lots of pictures.  And I DEFINITELY heard more English in that area that French.  I wonder why....  Anyway, back to my Valentine's Day treat to myself.  The museum quai Branly depicts art from Oceania, Asia, the Americas, and Africa.  It is funny how the only region not represented was Europe. (Well Antarctica too, but that does not count.)  Does that mean that Europe does not have any tribal or "primitive" elements.  The museum is very controversial, and I understand why.  Not only are its contents controversial, but the way that the museum is laid out as well.  There are very few explanations that accompany the displays.  Therefore, visitors are left to their own interpretations.  Which might not necessarily be a good thing.  For example, most of the materials that represent North America consist of "Indian headresses," weapons from the hunt, and paintings of "Indians" by white folk.  It was very interesting, but I thought about the interpretation from someone who did not know much about far away places.  Many regions of each continent were represented, but this "museum of man" seemed to represent what one thought of the "other."  I know there is more out there, but I doubt every visitor does.  While I was at the museum, Patience and I contacted each other and decided to meet up for a movie.  More happy Valentines Day!  She and a friend, Woody, has spent the afternoon at l'Orangerie (another museum) so we all met up for a quick bite of Turkish food and then Slumdog Millionaire.  That is the second time I have seen that movie and I loved it just as much.  It was in VO (Version Originale) which meant it had subtitles, and no dubbing.  Phew.  

So as I said, one weekend, three museums.  Here comes numero three.  Sunday is everything is closed day, as I have said before.  However, most museums are open on the day of rest because it is a popular activity for the family.  That is what Sunday is supposed to be all about after all... I had lunch with the family.  My host mom's mother came over as she usually does on Sundays.  Afterwards I worked on a homework (yes that stuff is starting) assignment for awhile because then I had plans to go to the Musée d'Orsay with some friends!  I got there a bit after 4 so there was not much time to browse (they start clearing it around 5:30).  But this did not phase me because I have a d'Orsay pass, thank you IES, that lets me get in for free anytime, any day. Big old train station, lots of Degas, Cezanne, Monet, Manet, Renoir, Pissaro, Rodin...... and it kept going and going.  I probably saw about 3% of the museum but it was fantastic nonetheless.  I will probably be heading there quite often after class or something to hang out, see some artwork.  You know, the usual stuff we do back at Northwestern.  The other cool thing, is that in almost all museums you can take pictures of everything as long as you don't use a flash.  Therefore I snapped away all weekend.  

So that pretty much sums up my cultural escapade.  And another week of classes begins...

Strike that!

So do you really want to hear how my classes went this week?  Probably not in great detail...it's school.  Anyway, Monday I had three classes from 12:30 to 5:30. (Monday/Wednesday IES classes are the same, and Tues/Thurs are the same- no IES classes Friday!)  First Art and Architecture from the Middle Ages to 1715.  The teacher is a really cute older woman, who wore the same sweater for the first two classes.  It looks like it has skittles down the front because there are multicolored buttons. She obviously loves what she does, thus it makes everything else that much more interesting.  We watched a video on the different kinds of gothic structures and she was almost jumping up and down at certain points because it was so interesting or something really important about the precise structure of the edifice. Then...History of French Cinema.   I wish I had  taken cinema classes in the past. I see why my cousin loves what he does, and what he studies. The professor used to direct documentaries on art and museums.  Basically we watched movies and discussed the evolution of cinema.  How awesome is that!  

Lastly, I had Women in French Literature.  Well... not so cool. Let's put it this way: The first day there were about 20 people in the class.  On Wednesday there were 8 left.... I think that the high-pitched sound of her voice knocked out about 5 people, the subject matter knocked out 4, and her opening speech criticizing the American university system knocked out the rest.  

My Tues/Thurs classes start at 9 which means I have to get up at 7... haven't done that in forever so it killed me this week.  My first class is Translation (from English to French).  It is the same prof as my grammar thingy which is great. Then I have a peachy little break to bum around and eat, then at 12:30 course 2 of the day starts: Paris Francophone, which is really interesting.  We learn about the diverse groups of people and problems that have occurred in Paris with immigration and such.  It is a huge thing here: xenophobia.  

I doubt any of you know, but I am currently in Paris during a unique period.  Remember those strike things?  Universities love strikes.  Usually it is the students who start the strikes, for whatever they want.  They block the school, stage protests in the street, riot, destroy stuff, try to get at the police, and so on...  That would never fly in the US.  But here it is "normal."  Anyway, this period of strikes is different.  It is not just the students who are protesting and walking out, etc.  The big part of the strike is by.... the professors!  Therefore, most classes at universities such as the Sorbonne, are canceled or will probably be canceled soon.  The professors either cancel them and refuse to teach until they their needs are met or they can't teach because the students and riots prevent them from getting into the buildings.  This has screwed over so many American students, French too but obviously we are not here for long and if all of your classes are canceled while you are abroad...how do you get credit at home??  Or even some of the classes....we don't exactly plan on these things in the months of academic preparation before our study abroad departure.  A lot of people are having to make a hasty plan B...

Police are everywhere around the universities.  Waiting for a toe to step out of line...  

However, my external course, Introduction to Judaism, was to be at Institut Catholique de Paris, which is a private school so it does not normally have strikes.  So I was good!  Wrong....  Last night, I went out with a bunch of friends in my program (from Depaul).  We were talking about our external courses, and I mentioned that I was excited about my class, Intro to Judaism. But then.... "You know that's canceled, right?"  WHAT!  I did not know that, no one told me, and that was pretty much the only class that fit into my already packed schedule. Later, I did receive an email about this event, but as of that point I had heard nothing. (Apparently the class was not supposed to be listed for the second semester.  It was accidentally printed in the brochure.  Thank you very organized French university system.) One of the girls had the external course packet so I hastily started looking through it for a replacement.  I found: Medieval History.  It also had a section on Thursday at 3:30 (today) and then the main course met on Fridays, but every other one, so that didn't sound to bad.  After my classes today, I meander down to rue d'Assas, where my class is to be held.  I find the classroom and sit outside and wait 3:15 ...and wait 3:28.  The class in the room is still going, full steam ahead.  3:40...nothing.  There was a French student sitting up in the annex waiting for a class as well, so I asked her if she knew what was going on.  She was waiting on something else, but we verified the classroom.  I was definitely in the right place.  She told me I should go down to administration to see what was going on.  So I did... they looked it up on the computer...no course listed for today... they kept looking, and finally te woman called some unknown higher official.  After ten seconds or so and a lot of "D'accord, d'accord, oh ok, oui."  She hung up.  This is what she told me:  they rearranged the entire history department hours and class scheduling so there is no more TD section on Thursdays.  She kindly told me, I would have to reformat my entire schedule to fit these changes.  I told her that I was a foreign student (duh) and it was my only course at ICP.  Thus, I was informed that I should go look at the sheets outside one of the offices to view the changes.... Lovely.  Luckily, I can still be in the class, because there are sections on Tuesdays.  I missed the first two, but oh well... Tomorrow is the first course, and unless the pope cancels it, or the university decides to continue it's French form of management, the class will take place.  

Moral of the story:  I am exhausted, and so glad that I go to school in the US.  

and zee grèves continue...

I am one of 6 Billion

My goodness. I have not written in a few days. And I am proud to say that I am having a bit of trouble writing in Englsih. I am at our family friends house, the Zouaris, and I am only speaking French. There are no Americans here.

Tuesday was a nothing day, I think I had classes and then did nothing.

After class on Wednesday, Chenault and I went shopping and I bought another pair of leather riding boots and another pair of converse-like shoes.  Woohoo.  Then we walked, and walked and walked.  Chenault searched high and low for a pair of boots too, but because she is a size 38 (very common) most stores were sold out.  We eventually got boot-fatigue, and they all started looking the same.  So we went to Le Bon Marché to get school supplise.  It was kind of like buying notebooks at Saks or Bloomingdales...  But they didn't have any tape!  Craziness.  After a week of intensive grammar classes, I had my language test on Thursday.  It was très facile (easy).  I was able to just relax for the rest of the day.  

On Friday my program took us to the the atelier de Guy Martin.  He is a world famous chef, and he has a place where they hold cooking classes.  It was FANTASTIC, and delicious.  We made chicken, with citron selé under the skin and a risotto-like mixture with quinoa, onions, fennel, and tomatoes.  The chef walked us through all the steps and we got to make it and then.........eat it! They had chocolate soufflé for dessert (the specialty of Guy Martin).  I couldn't eat it because it has a lot of butter and I detest chocolate (which they thought was a sin).  Luckily another girl had the same issue, so we both got fruit plates.  Yum!  

After stuffing myself silly I met up with another Northwestern girl, Nina, who is doing IES Paris for the year.  She and I went to the exposition on Yann Arthus-Bertrand.  I did a project on the French photographer/activist.  I love his work.  We saw the media exposition, "The 6 Billion Others."  Check it out online, it was spectacular. www.6billionothers.org It was way to much to see in one visit.  The montage was fascinating, so I hope to go back before it is over February 12!  

I made it home by 7:15 so I could Skype with my dad.  It was great to get to talk to him, the time difference has certainly caused problems - especially since I don't have a set schedule yet.  But I start my courses tomorrow! Friday night, I met up with a friend from the French immersion program that I did in high school.  Matt is here for the year as well.  We went to China-town to get Vietnamese food.  The place we wanted to go to had a line out the door, so we found the first place that had space and plopped down.  It was a picture menu and everything!  Matt got a dish called "The Eight Treasures" (no joke.)  It had plenty of goodies: chicken, fish, tofu, veggies, etc.  It wasn't to bad.  I got some seafood stuff.  It was ok.  I can't wait to go back to get REAL Vietnamese food.  It's the thing here.  Matt and I talked about our experiences in Paris, obviously he has had a lot more than I have had.  He lives right near the sex district, so it's obviously full of adventures.  This city is one big adventure.  

On Saturday I went to the gym in the morning and had lunch with my family in Boulogne Billancourt, but then I hit the RER (kind of like a commuter rail) to go visit the Zouari family for the weekend.  It is not as easy as the metro.  That I learned fast.  Because it was snowing (again!) they shut down some of the trains.  Basically a flake of snow equals the world is coming to an end in Paris.  I was doing well until I got to the station Nanterre Prefecture.  There just happened to be no trains to Sartrouville (the suburb where the Zouari's live).  After a really bitchy train station lady gave me sketchy directions to get to my final destination, I started to backtrack.  And backtrack, and stress out...  Three hours later, I made it to their house.  (It is supposed to take an hour.)  

It was a relaxing weekend.  Saturday night I babysat for their next door neighbors.  They had two adorable little girls: Estelle, 9 and Julie, 6.  They were wonderful, and I loved speaking solely in French.  It is really different speaking with little children, especially because they were in awe of the fact that I speak another language.  They wanted to learn English, all of it!  So I taught them to count to 20, the days of the week, and a few phrases.  The little picked it up a lot faster, but she was frustrated that I was not able to count to infinity.  She was obsessed with that "number."  In fact, she says she wants to have infinity children so that means she needs to be infinity rich.  I wish her good luck.  She already has two boyfriends apparently, so she's off to a good start...  I really want to go back and babysit for them, I realize how much I miss being around little kids.  I watched "New York District" for awhile.  We know it as "Law and Order."  As I am sure many of you know, I am a big L&O fan, thus it was a great way to end the night.  After the parents got home from their night on the Champs Elysée, I wandered back to the Zouari's to pass out.  I was pooped.  Sunday was certainly a day of rest and relaxation.  Basically I talked to Michele, the mom, for hours.  We had lunch with Thomas and then Clémence and Jacques got home from her fencing competition.  Anne-Carole, who is my age, was MIA.  She and I will be hitting the town next weekend or the one after.  ;-)  I lounged on the couch with the family and watched two French movies.  They were kooky and silly, but I was really proud because I understood it! Although I started this post at the Zouari's, I will admit that I am now back in Boulogne Billancourt.  I gotta hit the sack soon so I can be fully rested for day one of true brain usage.

Thus I bid you farewell. 

The Day Paris was covered in Slush

Sunday morning we woke up to a tornado stricken house.  Well it wasn't too too bad, nothing was destroyed or anything.  A lot of empty bottles, dirty dirty floors, and crumbs.  It was all to be expected, and nothing a Swiffer, windex, mop, and broom couldn't cure.  I think I fell asleep around 2 the night before so I was pleased that I actually slept in (I woke up around 10:30).  However, my host siblings were kind of zombie-esque because they had gotten to bed after 5, plus they woke up a wee bit...out of sorts.  Once again, to be expected.  I had a date with my friend Chenault (she is also a junior at NU) so I left the house around noon.  I grabbed a bite at this awesome Arabic/Mediterranean place called Food Express.  It is one of the few cheap things in this wonderful city.  Couscous and kabobs = yum.  Chenault and I were to meet up and the Memorial de la Shoah (French Holocaust museum).  As I have said, Sundays are dead.  Even the grocery stores are closed, or close around noon, which proved to be a problem when I tried to find dinner Sunday night.  Jews have their Sabbath on Saturday; therefore, le Maurais (the Jewish quarter, which also happens to be the gay neighborhood- go figure) is kicking on Sundays.  I went the Sunday before with my host family, and it proved to be alive yesterday as well.  Although not as many people were out due to the bitter cold (maybe 34 degrees or so).  The museum was amazing.  Absolutely fascinating.  I highly recommend it for anyone who visits Paris.  It was completed in 2005 so it is relatively new.  France only acknowledged its government involvement rounding up the French jews in 1997.  (Decree by Jacques Chirac).  After spending about 3 1/2 hours wandering around the museum/memorial.  Then we found a little café and had coffee.  It was great!  We wandered around trying to find an open supermarket...no luck.  So I had to buy a tiny garden salad (5 friggen Euro!) from an Italian place, and I added some leftover chicken when I got home.  

This morning I woke up to a surprise: SNOW!  Well actually it was more like mush.  It rarely snows in Paris.  My teacher said that it snows about every other winter, lucky us.  It was gone around 11, and just rained the rest of the day.  Yuck.  I just had my language class today so it was a pretty uneventful, yet dreary day.  Zat is all.  

bisous